Archive Jan - Mar 2010 - Fashion Exposed Online

The age of enlightenment

For spring/summer 2011 Mpdclick presents three trends, Enlighten, Sobriety & Fable. Having looked at Fable in the last edition, this week the forecaster takes a look at what the Enlighten trend will look like for Summer 2011.

Eryn Behan is director of Ginger Trend Consulting, the exclusive agent for UK trend forecaster Mudpie and its online platform MPDClick, and a provider of fashion forecast services and consumer insight trends to the fashion and interior design industries throughout Australasia.

Enlighten explores the blend of traditional styles with contemporary visions in a trend influenced by the rich and vibrant cultures of India and the Middle East. New India inspires a cosmopolitan lifestyle, while national pride is embodied in an unwavering devotion to cricket and authentic cultural experiences.

The unifying game of cricket inspires a look that references the British Raj and long, hot Indian summers. Sun-bleached, rough canvas takes a military edge and is mixed with opulent fabrics and chintz. A sense of Victorian formality is combined with traditional toile de jouy prints and a faded palette of sepia tones and pastel shades.
Inspired by an aged sense of formality, reminiscent of the time of the British Raj, unity combines the opulence of the Indian military uniforms and formal sportswear with vivid colours that contrast bleached out fabrics and vintage Victorian postcards and stamps.

Long, drawn out days in the sun inspire distressed khaki and weathered finishes, contrasted with highly decorative chintz. Gloss fabrics contrast with matte textures, while shimmering ornamental fabrics are juxtaposed with worn, hardwearing canvas. Antique tea sets, vintage leather cricket balls and vintage stamps inspire the graphic direction.

Images from left: Stella Mccartney, Lacoste, Dries van norton, Valentino.

iSpy... global access runway shows

Something peculiar is afoot at the world's leading fashion shows. Gone are the days of VIP access, front row celebs and wild media scrambles; iSpyStyle charts how the web-revolution is destroying the old world order.

Kate Vandermeer is director of iSpyStyle - a website and consultancy that spies on the design and fashion industry providing trend and business information targeted to inspire, inform and connect. Follow Kate on Twitter at www.twitter.com/iSpyStyle_Kate or subscribe to her website for free on www.ispystyle.net

This is a fascinating time in the global fashion industry. The digital world has merged with the real one, and with it comes the breaking down of the very barriers we fashion folk have created.

The bi-annual fashion weeks (NY, London, Milan and Paris) were once VIP access only. They were easily spotted for their celebrity studded front rows, glam after parties and frantic journalists/media rushing from one show to the next and then back to their hotels to hastily pen their reviews!

These days the modus operandi has changed. Teenage bloggers are being given front row seats (pushing seasoned journalists back a row) and the speed of reviews has moved from waiting for the edit from magazines two or three months later to real time reporting via social media like Twitter.

This most recent fashion week was a case in point, first with Burberry (pictured) streaming live to a handful of cities, where buyers and press gathered together in their own countries to watch the catwalk as if in London. The brand then offered an immediate VIP waiting list opportunity to pre-purchase pieces from the collection to be delivered before it hit stores.

Then there was Marc Jacobs show, a humble affair with a stripped back aesthetic, less glossy and showy than many previous seasons and (shock, horror) with a celebrity free front row (never before seen at a Marc Jacobs show) also streamed live.

Early indications are that this change in catwalk presentation will enable a more "egalitarian" approach to fashion, a welcome one and all style giving the customer more power and media communications more direct clout than ever.

Will we look back on this era as a turning point where fashion became more about the consumer and their desires than ever before? Will we fondly recall the days when designers and media were the style makers and customers followed blindly in their wake?

We shall see, but it sure is exciting to watch it all unfold!

Fable and fantasy

For spring/summer 2011 Mpdclick presents three trends, Enlighten, Sobriety & Fable. Here the forecaster takes a sneak peak at what the Fable trend will look like for Summer 11. Stay tuned for the summer interpretation of Sobriety & Enlighten over the next two editions.

Fable explores a return to innocence as it manifests itself within the majesty and intrigue of the forest. Epic children's literature and the romance of idyllic, natural ways of life are underpinned by resurgence of fantasy ideals within cinema, fashion and design.

For fashion and tailoring ranges, be inspired by the good versus evil narrative of fairy tales, celebrating the magic and wonder of traditional storytelling, bringing old fable and folklore to a modern audience. The ethereal and delicate beauty of an imaginary dream-world is tinged with an underlying sense of darkness.

Translucent and iridescent fabrics evoke the enchanting aesthetics of fairy wings and magical apparel, while handcrafted details emphasise the intricacy of the trend.
Translucent watercolour and soft bleed effects accompany hand drawn illustrative graphics and scripted type to highlight the mystical aesthetic.

Loose and billowing silhouettes with uneven and unfinished hemlines are crucial, providing the perfect ground for fantastical embellishments.

Images from left: Computer Arts, Wunderkind, Christian Lacroix

"Denimhead" - key denim trends

February 24 2010

Jeans bristling with cool hardware and gems are among some of the key denim trends for autumn/winter, as Ginger Trend Consulting for Mudpie reports.

"Studs and Stones", the number one trend for A/W10/11, is the most dominant trend in Paris, and has been interpreted across the board by high-end brands to mass market retailers. Cavalli creates a super sexy skinny jean with a decorative stud design along the side seam and has also created the "must have" studded skirts of the season.

Balmain and Bllack Noir add the perfect amount of studs to their garments, creating the ultimate biker chic look. Heavily studded statement jackets are seen at Topshop, with our favourite being a fringed black suede bolero. Studs and stones also dominate the handbag and shoe categories, making this a trend that will be with us for some time.

For this season Motocross styling also returns with a vengeance, led by the most prestigious of them all, the Balmain Motocross Jean. This style is seen in solid, stripe and plaid, incorporating key motocross details such as reinforced knees, engineered seams and zip pockets. Pepe, Topshop, Morgan, Cavalli, Karen Millen, Et Vous, Fornarina and Miss Sixty all developed variations of the oh-so-popular motocross jean.

iSpy ... new talent at Fashion Exposed

February 24 2010

As presenter of the Runway to Reality workshops at Fashion Exposed from 14-16 February, iSpyStyle's Kate Vandermeer had a ringside seat at the trade fair's hightlights. Here, she reports back.

Firstly, thanks to all those who attended the Runway to Reality workshop held at Fashion Exposed in Sydney. I had many of you come up and thank me for my tips and advice afterwards, which was lovely feedback.

Secondly, for any of you who missed the Menswear or Womenswear report, an edited version is now available on my website, www.iSpyStyle.net. You'll find it in the Trends section under Womenswear SS10 and Menswear SS10, along with imagery from exhibitors who picked up on some of the key trends.

Thirdly, some hot tips from the stands! Fashion Exposed once more proved the ideal hunting ground for fresh talent. Here's a pared down selection of the many great new brands that caught my eye:-

1. Chaos and Harmony (pictured left) - these amazing, on-trend shoes with a twist from a New Zealand were part of the Debut awards program. Wedge boots with rope detailing were a highlight.

2. Jolet - this Debut entrant has some great futuristic tailoring. The stone zip jacket with shoulder detailing was a highlight.

3. Two Birds - Featured in preview, this label epitomises an up market luxe bohemia that is timeless and in the most gorgeous sorbet colour palette. I'll be getting the leopard print strapless sundress.

4. Sass/Fate (Sass pictured right) - For on-trend fast fashion with a twist, you can't beat Sass/Fate.

5. Zoda - Fabulous statement jewellery and accessories

6. Dusud - South African designers featured at preview with a great selection of unique clothing and shoes. Stand out from the crowd with this label.

7. Apanna - modern menswear with a preppy twist. Watch this space.

8. Legend & Soul - great relaxed casual menswear that will live in your closet forever.

9. Squire Australia - amazing array of on trend men's shoes (I particularly loved the red leather loafers)

10. Superga - a great stand with cool product, this Italian shoe label offers an impressively wide range of on trend sneakers for women, men and kids.

Clash Couture

February 10 2010

Someone once said that good taste begins where imagination ends. As Ginger Trend Consulting for Mudpie asserts, the trend for artfully clashing colours and prints defies 'good taste' and gives free rein to the imagination, with fabulous results.

‘Clash Couture' celebrates the sheer delight that comes from breaking the rules; why adhere to a strict code of dress and limit yourself to one colour or pattern when there is a veritable kaleidoscope of options to choose from? Savvy street dressers across the globe have given in to a subversive desire to express themselves and make a loud style statement clashing print, colour and trends to their hearts' content.

Runway mavericks showcased their love for the high fashion clash for autumn/winter 09/10, with Sao Paolo Fashion Week favourite Walerio Araujo pushing hectic digital print suits and accessories for men, and US designer Betsey Johnson featuring mix ‘n' match geometric jumpsuits in her womenswear collection.

Moving on to spring/summer 10, opt for plenty of juxtaposing ethnic themes, following the lead of premier labels such as Issey Miyake and Marc by Marc Jacobs.

This trend is less about products and more about styling; in-store merchandise a mixed bag of prints and themes in one look. Small-scale animal prints will work with large-scale geometrics, tartans and stripes. To keep ensembles balanced, consider proportions; if you opt for volume cut trousers, choose a slim fit top.

Fashion's biggest faux pax is fast becoming fashion's favourite trend, so take note and bring a little 'clash couture' in store now.

From left: Lookbook.nu; Marc by Marc Jacobs; Scarf - Topman, T-shirt - Forever 21; Walerio Araujo.

Retailing Tip 3 - Get yourself exposed!

February 10 2010

This week (and quite without prompting) our online and retail guru Mark Davis has inadvertently plugged Fashion Exposed, driving home the importance of trade fairs and networking events in securing a high recall market position for your brand.

An expert and trainer in all things retail, business coach Mark Davis divides his time between Australia and Europe, traversing the globe to share his retail, sales, business and Internet marketing insights.

Speaking at a recent trade fair, I was reminded of the importance of being seen...in public, with people who are in your industry.

Trade shows, fairs, exhibitions and more, these are all opportunities for people who share common commercial interests to come together, discuss better ways of doing things, share trends and advances that are good for everyone in the industry, and most importantly incorporate that vital social element into their business.

I train people to do things online to save them time; but the real reason that online is so worthwhile is that it frees people up to focus on getting in front of their customers and suppliers, as well as working with staff to deliver a better product or service.

Getting yourself seen also helps customers and potential customers remember your brand. There is a lot to be said for putting those attention grabbing phrases into your marketing; "as seen on the web", "as seen on TV", "as heard on radio", "as seen at Fashion Exposed" and so on.

Its a simple concept, but really important: if you've taken the trouble to get yourself online (or into any other media) in order to expose yourself, then it's important to get yourself seen.

Research networking events, breakfasts, shows, exhibitions, trade fairs, even the local market. Get yourself out and about, develop an offline brand that people will recognise and remember, and then spread the word.

www.coachmarkdavis.com

iSpy ... a true concept store

February 10 2010

Creating a memorable retail experience through the creation of a stand out concept store is one of the most effective ways to drive your brand message, as iSpyStyle reports.

I have a confession to make... I've got a design crush on Swedish people and their inherently stylish aesthetic sense. Whether it's embodied in their leading fashion labels such as Nudie, Acne or House of Dagmar, their functional yet chic designer furniture, efficient use of space (hello, Ikea!) or their love of white and blonde wood, Swedish design is always instantly identifiable.

So with that in mind, I am not surprised that the latest business initiative from fashion stationery brand kikki.K is a White Concept Store. Yes, you read correctly... the whole colour palette is WHITE.... stationery, furniture and the staff's uniforms (made by Funkis Swedish Form of course!). Limited edition collections of new season favourites are going to be re-worked in white, exclusively for the Strand Arcade in Sydney (grubby fingers be warned!).

The white colour creates a calm, contemporary sanctuary, taking a concept and following it through from start to finish. It is this lesson that is most important - when planning a ‘retail concept store' remember that the theme is crucial. What makes this ‘concept store' stand out is the visual merchandising, selection of stock, marketing and location. Concept stores provide the shopper with a true ‘retail experience' that they will talk about, promote and recommend to their networks, encouraging long-term foot traffic.

iSpy ... a new testing ground!

January 27 2010

It was only a matter of time before the Internet gave birth to a whole new mode of disseminating creative talent. iSpyStyle takes a look at an innovative UK based site which does exactly that.

With the decline in glossy magazine circulation and the shift to online magazines and video content, the world of "creative, thematic" shoots has taken on a new twist.

Enter "Test", the website that showcases emerging and established creatives. Test's directory of practitioners includes photographers, stylists, make-up artists, hair stylists, directors, cinematographers, set designers, models, milliners, editors, musicians and many more.

Created to offer a platform to showcase these artists, the name is derived from the ‘test-shoot', which is used to build portfolio work with no advertising, client boundaries inhibiting the artist's creativity.

Art Director and Curator, Jaime Perlman founded the concept. Her CV includes working with America's Harpers Bazaar, American Vogue and British Vogue. Jaime wants Test (launched in September 2009) to be a place where the digital fashion world can ‘test' the waters to find new collaborations, new styles of artistic expression and forge a new frontier.

www.testmag.co.uk

Retailing Tip #2 - The only reason to collect names and emails

January 27 2010

In today's instalment, Mark illustrates the hidden value in all those details you collect on your customers.

When you go into a restaurant, you'll often see a fishbowl or platter to throw your business card in, and once a month the establishment draws a lucky winner who gets a free dinner or lunch for two.

It's a simple and highly effective way of collecting names and addresses and emails.

Once businesses have gathered these details most forget to keep in contact with the relevant customers however; those business cards often become useless by the time the company eventually gets around to promoting a special offer.

Email marketing can be the cheapest form of promotion in a store, to both customers and prospects. But to make it work, you have to do two things well.

1. Collect names and email addresses.

The simplest way to do this in a retail environment is to have staff ask for them.

A monthly prize for a lucky customer, promoted at the point of sale, is often the best "way in". Sales people simply encourage customers to enter their name and email address. You're not asking for a blood sample, or their personal home address for junk mail, you're giving them a chance to win something.

If people aren't buying, this is the perfect way for a salesperson to start a conversation, with something like, "Have you entered our monthly competition to win a free wardrobe/makeover?" This is a great icebreaker; the conversation is started.

It's been proven by psychologists, that the fear of loss is greater than the desire for gain. So when customers realise there is a prize at stake, no matter the value, the chance of missing out is a greater motivator than the chance of winning. You can use this to your advantage and let them sell themselves on entering the competition.

2. Follow up. (This requires a bit more work.)

No-one wants to be the data entry person... least of all a salesperson. But with incentives, bonuses and commissions, it makes sense for sales people to have a constant stream of prospects and happy customers re-ordering. Email marketing is the simplest way to achieve this.

First, send an email to customers, thanking them for visiting your store, with a personal note, addressed to them, together with a pdf version of the latest special or catalogue. However, make sure it's not too big; a large attachment will be caught by spam filters and stop your email getting through.

Second, they should be in an automated system where they get regular updates, newsletters, industry news, and store events and specials, by email, at least monthly.

If you know your buying cycle - for example three times a year, then communicate with customers at least three times a year. In stores where stock changes rapidly, monthly or even weekly can work.

Remember, no-one crosses the street for a 10 per cent discount on full price shoes, but people will drive 20km for a special members only offer that gives them the chance to be first, save the most, or be rewarded for being a good customer. Just keep in contact, and if you have something they want, the frequency of your communication will pay off.

The only reason you collect names and emails is to market to them. Remember this, put it into action, and you will see 20 per cent growth in the next six months. Simple, but powerful, like all great ideas.

www.coachmarkdavis.com

Twist and drape

January 27 2010

Who needs fancy prints or trims when the season's hottest trend is about the sculptural possibilities of the fabric itself? Ginger Trend Consulting for Mudpie deconstructs the look.

On the streets and in the glossies sensual twists and drapes adorn everything from languid dresses to statement separates. This feminine trend made a bold impact on the a/w 09/10 global runways with high fashion favourite Balenciaga spearheading the style, and it's set to take a romantic leap into s/s 10.

The look demands a sensual silhouette and celebrates cleverly manipulated volume, and can be interpreted for high fashion edge for s/s 10's romantic feminine appeal. Expect to see soft folds in sugar sweet shades, further expanding the seasons feminine signature.

A selection of savvy retailers such as TopShop and Forever 21 have already included some 'twist and drape' garments within their womenswear ranges. Follow suit and bring some in store now as this trend is set to escalate in the coming months. Single block colours work best, making the most of feature folds.

From left: Baleniaga, TopShop, Forever 21, Burberry

Retail tip 1 - Invest in your greatest asset

January 14 2010

In his inaugural retail tip for 2010, our resident retail and online expert Mark Davis shares his insights on how to capitalise on people power in your business.

It's not every day we remember that our stores wouldn't function without people; the people who smile all day at customers who are window-shopping; the people who unpack the boxes, and merchandise our products throughout the store.

They keep it clean, smelling nice, play the right music and check that everything possible is being done to show off the products for maximum impact.

It's also these people that sell. They have often been in the business of face to face selling since before finishing high school. Many stay in the retail industry because they have a passion for it. They love the rush of a good sale; they love to be responsible for helping people find what they are looking for.

And most importantly, they like to think they are part of something bigger, a look, an industry, a trend - they can say they help to create the future in their own small way.

So it's important that we look after them - keep them engaged, keep them continuously learning. Robert Kiyosaki, author of Rich Dad, Poor Dad, said that the purpose of education is to inspire further education. It makes sense then to stimulate the desire for learning by making opportunities available.

These can be simple online classes in communication skills, or diplomas in management, but the important thing for staff satisfaction and retention is that personnel are given a chance at education they have perhaps never been offered. Remember, a 15-year-old who enters retail and loves it usually stays, so he or she may not even have finished high school or attended university. You could be the first place that offers them an education.

The result will be educated, satisfied staff who stay longer, work happier, and boast to their friends what a great boss you are... a win win for everyone!

www.coachmarkdavis.com

Quirky headgear

January 14 2010

The upcoming season looks set to see a sense of fun and fantasy going to our heads. Ginger Trend Consulting for Mudpie analyses the top picks in weird and wonderful headpieces.

iSpy ... trend spotting by eBay!

Janauary 14 2010

Anyone with a pulse is aware of eBay, but who knew the online global-mart was also taking on the trend-spotting and consumer insights game? iSpyStyle shares the lowdown.

In today's digital world, all online behaviour is monitored, meaning marketers can have a field day understanding and analysing the trends identified by our browsing, shopping and clicking habits. One case in point is The Inside Source by eBay.

With 88 million active users, eBay has a global community of shoppers and sellers that act like guinea pigs, allowing daily global shopping trends to be monitored. "The Inside source" was launched with the tag line "We trend spot, you trend set". With Meredith Barnett (of fashion magazine and journalism fame) acting as Editorial Director, this site was established as a digital media destination that curates and edits insights into American consumer retail.

Covering fashion, pop culture, tech, home and garden, entertainment, the green scene and a "what's hot now" category, the site uses real time analytics to survey customer-purchasing behaviour. It also offers blog posts updated by an editorial team who ‘trend spot' the most popular colours, products, styles and key words being searched via the highly trafficked eBay site.

This fascinating concept shows how savvy online ventures can harness their power and share the results with keen trend-spotters the world over... for free.

www.theinsidesource.com